NEIGHBORHOOD SPOTLIGHT:
PILSEN
By SERRA KOOK
Of all of Chicago’s diverse neighborhoods, perhaps none is more colorful or celebrated than Pilsen. Within the last few years, Forbes named it one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world, and Time Out magazine in early 2024 bestowed Pilsen the honor of having one of the world’s coolest streets. So, what is it that makes Pilsen so special?
The answer lies as much in the neighborhood’s past as it does in its present.
Located in the Lower West Side area, Pilsen echoes both Chicago’s rich immigrant history and its unwavering spirit of community. The neighborhood’s story can be traced back to the mid-19th Century when Chicago’s population swelled, resulting largely from the arrival of European immigrants — a significant number of whom were Czech, German, Polish and Italian.
Czech immigrants, seeking a better life, settled in what is now the Lower West Side and named it after Plzeň, their hometown in Bohemia (now the Czech Republic). In their new American home — the name of which was Anglicized to Pilsen — immigrants made the neighborhood a flourishing local center of Czech culture, establishing churches, schools, restaurants and businesses that reflected their cultural heritage.
One of the most iconic landmarks from this era of Czech immigration is Thalia Hall, a historic theater built in 1892. It served as a cultural center for the community, hosting performances, social events and political meetings. Today, Thalia Hall is a vibrant music and entertainment venue, bridging the past and present in much the same way as the neighborhood’s architecture, with many buildings featuring ornate facades and intricate details reminiscent of European styles.
Pilsen’s demographics shifted in the mid-20th century as Mexican immigrants began settling in the area, bringing rich cultural traditions with them that infused the neighborhood with a vibrant Mexican identity. Today, Pilsen is a cultural oasis bedecked with a kaleidoscope of murals, many depicting scenes of Mexican history, culture and social justice by an impressive array of artists.
It is impossible not to be struck by the panoply of artwork covering nearly every building and corner of this richly artistic neighborhood. This is particularly so on the walls of the 16th Street Murals, an outdoor canvas that resides along an old railroad embankment, and features the works of well-established and emerging artists of Pilsen’s art scene.
Further along several contiguous blocks of Halsted Street -— known as the Chicago Arts District — is a collection of galleries highlighting the work of local artists. Every second Friday of the month, the district’s galleries are free of charge to the public to explore, offering one of the best ways to experience the neighborhood’s vitality and creativity.
Rooted in history, transformed by change and enveloped in art, Pilsen reflects Chicago’s past and present, exuding a unique charm that draws visitors and residents to check out its various attractions.
Getting There & Transportation
Part of Pilsen’s charm is that it continues to be distinctly residential despite all the neighborhood has to offer. For travelers, this locale is ideal for day trips and evening outings, as it is low on lodging.
Head to the area via train and get off at the Chicago Transit Authority’s (CTA) 18th Street Pink Line station. Alternatively, take the Blue Line to the Clinton Street station and transfer on the Cicero bus. Additionally, the Ashland, Cermak, Damen and Halsted buses run through the area.
Must-See Sights, Museums and Murals
National Museum of Mexican Art: A cornerstone of Pilsen’s cultural scene, this museum showcases a vast collection of Mexican art and artifacts spanning pre-Hispanic times to the present day.
1852 W. 19th St., (312) 738-1503
16th Street Murals: Stroll along 16th Street and immerse yourself in the vibrant murals that adorn the buildings. These colorful works depict social justice, cultural heritage and community pride themes.
Murals concentrated along West 16th and 18th Streets
Pilsen Art Galleries: Pilsen is home to numerous art galleries showcasing the works of local and international artists. Explore galleries like the Woman Made Gallery and Prospectus Art, in addition to other spaces along the Chicago Arts District for creative inspiration.
Women Made Gallery – 1332 S. Halsted St., (312) 738-0400
Prospectus Art – 1208 W. 18th St., (312) 733-6132
Chicago Arts District – 1945 S. Halsted St., (312) 738-8000
Hector Duarte Studio: Visit the studio of renowned muralist Hector Duarte, whose home is also covered in his artwork.
1900 W. Cullerton St., (312) 633-9245
Pilsen Arts & Community House: This nonprofit organization provides space for exhibitions, art instruction and community engagement.
1637 W. 18th St., (312) 468-9046
Thalia Hall: Pilsen’s historic music venue and event space has been restored to its former glory, regularly hosting concerts, theatrical performances and other cultural events.
1807 S. Allport St., (312) 526-3851
Pilsen Community Books: A nonprofit bookstore and community space, Pilsen Community Books offers a curated selection of new and used books, and hosts various events and workshops celebrating literature and the arts.
1102 W. 18th St., (312) 478-9434
Where to Eat
S.K.Y: This elegant establishment offers globally-inspired cuisine with innovative flavor combinations and a must-try tasting menu.
1239 W. 18th St., (312) 846-1077
HaiSous Vietnamese Kitchen: Authentic cuisine shines here, with fresh ingredients and bold flavors. Don’t miss their bún cha (grilled pork) or cá kho tô (clay pot catfish).
1800 S. Carpenter St., (312) 702-1303
Pilsen Yards: A hip restaurant and bar that offers quick bites and hearty plates, plus DJ sets and other regular happenings. It is also home to The Alderman, an intimate, 16-seat cocktail bar behind Pilsen Yards’ doors that features a rotating menu along with a stationary menu that riffs on American classics.
1163 W. 18th St., (312) 243-2410
Pl-zen: A beloved neighborhood institution, Pl-zen serves classic Czech dishes like schnitzel, goulash and dumplings. Pair your meal with a Czech beer for an authentic experience.
1519 W. 18th St., (312) 733-0248
The Duck Inn: This historic tavern is known for its duck dishes, including the famous roast duck. The restaurant’s warm and inviting atmosphere makes it a great spot for a special occasion.
2701 S. Eleanor St., (312) 724-8811
Don Pedro Carnitas: A Pilsen institution, Don Pedro is known for its slow-cooked carnitas. The tacos are a must-try, and the portions are generous.
1113 W. 18th St., (312) 829-4757
Café Jumpin’ Bean: A neighborhood institution since 1994, Jumpin’ Bean serves up delicious coffee, pastries and sandwiches in a cozy and welcoming atmosphere.
1439 W. 18th St., (312) 455-0019